Beer Reviews

  • Porters and Stouts can carry the holidays

    Beer meisters love to argue over the differences between porters and stouts. Some say porters are lighter and sweeter; others say stouts must contain roasted malts. In the 19th century, brown stout was simply the term for the strongest version of porter. We’re not weighing in on this debate, but can say with certainty that both categories fare well at festive gatherings and can carry a chilly, dark season way beyond the solstice.

    Here are some to try:

    Stone Brewing Company’s Smoked Porter with vanilla beans is made with whole Madagascar beans and blends chocolaty, coffee, toffee-like flavors with subtle smokiness and vanilla sweetness. It’s definitely an ebony-hued dessert in a glass. Some revelers may want to add a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream to gild the lily. 5.9 percent ABV.

    Arcadia Ales’ Shipwreck Porter is a robust, malty Baltic-style porter (so named by British producers for porters exported to the cold climes of the Baltic countries and Scandinavia). Aged in 10-year old Kentucky bourbon barrels for 12 months, this dark elixir from Battle Creek, Mich., features undertones of vanilla, oak, cocoa and coffee. At 12 percent ABV, this porter will ward off winter’s chill. Interesting factoid: Aging takes place in abandoned Michigan mines at a constant 45F.

    Rogue’s Shakespeare Stout won’t be the top pick of super-sweet or milk stout cognoscenti, but this jet-black brew has a creamy head and offers roasted malt and grain aromas plus chocolate flavors delicately balanced with a clean, bitter finish. At 6.1 percent ABV, it’s great with roast beef and Yorkshire pudding – or perhaps while rediscovering the Bard’s sonnets.

  • Aussie Brews

    Australia is a prolific wine producer, but it’s long been a beer-appreciating nation – even  before “Foster’s – Australian for beer” became a tag line. One of the early settlers to arrive at Botany Bay was James Squire, a “highwayman” convicted of stealing chickens. The ships also brought hops, and Squire seems to have been the first person to grow them successfully and brew beer commercially in the new colony. He owned hop gardens and a brewery and pub called the Malt Shovel at Kissing Point, near Sydney. Today Malt Shovel Brewery makes James Squire brand beers known for their full-flavored profiles.

    Here are some Aussie selections to sip while reciting Alfred Noyes’ classic verses from “The Highwayman”:

    James Squire Nine Tales Amber Ale:  Copper-colored with a creamy head, it’s full-flavored enough to be an English brown ale. Made with three kinds of malts and Tasmanian hops added late to the kettle, it has caramel, toffee and light hop aromas. Very refreshing with a slightly nutty finish. If you can’t find kangaroo meat, pair it with lamb.

    Bluetongue Traditional Pilsener: Bluetongue Brewery was founded in 2003 by four partners in the Hunter region of New South Wales who wanted to design beers that would showcase their region. Although it’s brewed in the Czech style, this pilsener combines Saaz hops with Australian malted barley, local water and no preservatives. It has malty flavors, balanced bitterness and fruity aromas – a perfect foil for spicy Asian food.

    Blue Sky Brewery’s True Blue Stout: Made in Cairns in Northern Queensland, this is more seasonally suited to American (or “Yank”) palates since it’s summer Down Under. This big, coffee-colored beer has mocha and chocolate flavors and lots of roasted malts. It’s great for warming up chilly days in southern Australia or the northern U.S.