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Prices may vary.

Weyerbacher’s Blithering Idiot: It pours a deep amber color and has a two-finger head that dissipates quickly. With subtle hops, what comes through are bready, caramel aromas. The taste of this robust barley wine-style ale (11% ABV) follows suit with a very proportional balance between sweets malts and a slightly bitter finish, with some hints of dark fruits and figs. Serve in a brandy snifter with full-flavored meats or cheeses.

Bear Republic’s Peter Brown Tribute Ale: This California brewery in the heart of wine country (Healdsburg) knows how to honor its employees. This malty American brown ale (6.3% ABV) is a tribute to late sales manager Pete Brown (1949-2002). It’s brewed with molasses and brown sugar, and hopped with Cascade and Centennial. It pays homage to the genre and pairs beautifully with spicy Mexican dishes.

Victory Brewing Company’s Headwaters Pale Ale: If hoppiness equals happiness, this is one to try. It pours a clear yellow and laces the glass nicely while delivering piney and citrus scents from American hops. Medium-bodied with a crisp, clean finish, this brew declares winter has been conquered.

Ever since the soothsayer told Julius Caesar, “Beware the Ides of March,” people have tip-toed around on March 15 as if they ruled the Roman Empire. This March Ohioans will not be unsettled. We’ll discuss politics over a brew and pick a presidential candidate. Brews News asked gurus in Cleveland, Columbus and Cincinnati what beers go with political discourse, what they’d serve a presidential candidate, and what they’ll be drinking on March 15:

Peanut Kahles, beer manager of the Dilly Café in Cincinnati: While he doesn’t relish talking politics, Peanut would choose a session ale or an IPA – something with low alcohol to keep things civil. Peanut has lots to choose from since Dilly Café is a popular restaurant and retail operation offering more than 500 bottles in its store. He would show off local product to a candidate – something from Mt. Carmel or Rivertown Breweries. On the Ides, he’ll be sipping Buckeye Brewing’s Nighty Night to keep things in perspective.

John Lane, principal in Cleveland-based Winking Lizard Taverns: This eatery is renowned for its World Tour of Beers with selections from all over the globe. John prefers something light because he thinks today’s politicians are long on promises and light on delivery. He would serve a future president one of Cleveland’s own, such as Great Lakes Brewing’s Edmund Fitzgerald or Thirsty Dog’s Old Leghumper. On the Ides, he’ll be paying his respects to Mars, god of war, with a bold choice such as Sierra Nevada Bigfoot Ale or Samuel Smith’s Imperial Stout.

Christina McClenaghan, general manager, World of Beer, Columbus: This rapidly expanding chain has locations from Florida to Texas and serves 500 beers from 40 countries. Christina likes to quaff 21st Amendment Brewery’s Brew Free or Die because it sounds patriotic. She’d serve a candidate Weyerbacher Brewing’s Blithering Idiot (see reviews for description) and hope it doesn’t turn him into one. She will welcome whatever comes on 3/15 with Unibroue’s La Fin du Monde, because if it’s the end, it’s not a bad way to go!

Ohio Food Festivals

One of the best reasons to live in (or visit) a state that’s as rich in agriculture as Ohio is the food festivals you can find almost every weekend. There are so many, in fact, that the following list is only a selection. For more visit www.ohiofestivals.net.
Happy eating!

May 4-5
Dandelion Festival. Held each year at Breitenbach Wine Cellars in Dover, this is where to sample dandelion wine, gravy, sausage, bread and ice cream. Saturday, cooks will compete for the most creative dandelion dish in the 19th annual Great Dandelion Cookoff.
www.dandelionfestival.com

May 26-28
Utica Old Fashioned Ice Cream Festival. Look for the grounds of the Velvet Ice Cream plant in Utica, then settle in for festival fun such as pony rides, a craft show, sheep herding demonstrations and a magic show. Participate in the ice-cream eating contest, or stop by the ice cream tent and indulge yourself in a cone or a dish.
www.uticaoldfashionedicecreamfestival.com

June 2-3
Troy Strawberry Festival. Troy calls itself the center of Ohio’s strawberry production, so come to the levee along the Miami River to find strawberries in every form imaginable – from doughnuts to strawberry pie. And save room for strawberry shortcake. There’s a parade, crafts fair and entertainment as well.
www.gostrawberries.com

June 8-9
Banana Split Festival. Come to where the banana split allegedly began – in Wilmington. Classic cars, games, rides, crafts and collectibles are only part of the fun. There is a banana-split eating contest, and a make-your-own-banana-split booth.
www.bananasplitfestival.com

July 13-15
North Market Food & Wine Festival. Each year, at the North Market in Columbus, visitors can sample some of the best Ohio wines, then step inside a 1940s-era Quonset hut for fresh, local, even international fare.
www.northmarket.com

July 20-22
Cheese Festival. Although no longer the “Cheese Empire” it once was, Wellington still celebrates its dairy heritage with an annual cheese festival. Wine tasting, cheesecake and mac ‘n’ cheese bakeoffs, and a cheese pizza eating contest are all part of the fun, along with booths of cheese to sample and buy.
www.mainstreetwellington.org

August 16-18
Bratwurst Festival. Bucyrus is known as the “Bratwurst Capital of America,” but don’t think a bratwurst is a bratwurst. Each is made differently and each has its own unique blend of spices and meats so tasting is definitely in order here. Add entertainment, a beer garden, art and craft shows, and rides and you have all-day entertainment.
www.ofea.org

August 18-19
Tomato Festival. Tomatoes come in an astonishing array of sizes, shapes and colors, and they’re all on display in Reynoldsburg at this event. Clowns, a flea market and pizza taste-off add to the fun. So does the tomato toss. Splat!
www.experiencecolumbus.com

August 25
Melon Festival. Dresden is home to Longaberger baskets and a melon festival that takes place here each year. There are melon-eating and seed-spitting contests for the kids and a beer garden for adults. Also boat rides, tractor pulls, a karaoke contest and a contest for the heaviest watermelon, largest cantaloupe and sweetest cantaloupe.
www.visitzanesville.com

August 29-September 1
Millersport Sweet Corn Festival. A parade, pageant, country music shows, clog-dancing and corn-eating contests provide plenty of old-fashioned fun, along with plenty of sweet corn to eat. Check the schedule before you go. You wouldn’t want to miss the Outhouse races, would you?
www.sweetcornfest.com

September 6-9
Popcorn Festival.  Why a popcorn festival in Marion? The city is home to the Wyandot Popcorn Museum, filled with the world’s largest collection of popcorn poppers and peanut roasters – a must-see while attending the festival. Or come for top-name entertainment, the beer garden or rides – or the popcorn, of course.
www.popcornfestival.com

September 8-9
Garlic Festival. The unmistakable aroma of garlic wafts over Cleveland’s Shaker Square as this festival gets underway. There are grill-offs, bake-offs, and last year, a presentation on garlic-friendly wines, along with entertainment and lots of garlic.
www.clevelandgarlicfestival.org

September 14-16
Ohio Pawpaw Festival. If you don’t know what a pawpaw is, now’s your chance to find out. Come to Lake Snowden in Albany to taste pawpaws in all forms – raw, baked into goods or brewed into beer. There’s a pawpaw cook-off, biggest pawpaw contest, even notes on how to grow pawpaws.
www.ohiopawpawfest.com/index.html

September 29-30
Grape Jamboree. When grapes in Geneva are harvested, it’s time to celebrate, so come and sample fresh grape juice, wine and other grape products. There’s a pie-eating contest and corn hole tournament, but for real fun, make like Lucy Ricardo and stomp some grapes (stompers must register first).
www.grapejamboree.com

October 13-14
Waynesville Sauerkraut Festival. You may think you don’t like sauerkraut – but reserve judgment until you’ve had a chance to sample sauerkraut pizza and sauerkraut fudge or ice cream. Of course you’ll find cabbage rolls here as well. Waynesville has offered its sauerkraut festival since 1970 and usually includes a juried art and craft show. Sorry, though, no beer (or other alcohol) to wash down your sauerkraut.
www.sauerkrautfestival.com

October 17-20
Circleville Pumpkin Show. The granddaddy of all food shows closes out the harvest season in style. Pick up your Halloween pumpkins here, or just indulge in an assortment of pumpkin-based food, including donuts, ice cream, breads, soups and pies (don’t miss the huge pumpkin pie made by Lindsey’s Bakery each year). Gourds and other seasonal fruits and vegetables are also available.
www.pumpkinshow.com/index.asp

Since then, the “wearing of the green” has grown into a celebration of Emerald Isle culture. Now on March 17, the anniversary of St. Patrick’s death, city streets give way to parades, pubs serve green beer, and the sartorial vibe is leprechaun-meets-shamrock. Not a bad memorial for a priest who lived more than 1,500 years ago!

Gary: For those of us who enjoy but partake in less than a six-pack of brew a year, wine is still a possibility for the St. Paddy’s Day event. Just remember that acidity is one of the major wine components to pair with food, especially with items that have astringencies (leafy vegetables in particular) and strong, spicy flavors.

3 TBS butter
1 bunch slender leeks, white part chopped and cleaned
4 large russet or Idaho potatoes, peeled and chopped
5 cups chicken broth
Salt and pepper to taste

In a Dutch oven, melt butter. Sauté chopped leeks until tender, about 15-20 minutes. Add potatoes, broth, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer about 30 minutes or until potatoes are tender. Purée right in the pot with an immersion blender or transfer to a food processor to puree.

Serves 6

Gary: Round and textured whites with a hint of crispness would be a pleasant match to pair with this traditional soup. White Rhônes (Marsanne/Roussanne blends) would be fine, as would Viognier, dry Chenin Blanc or dry Riesling. Sauvignon Blanc would be nice if it is not too overtly grassy or herbal. An unoaked Chardonnay would be pleasant, and a Macon Villages or Pouilly Fuisse close to perfection. For something unique, look for the white wines from a variety of areas in France that are based on Sauvignon Blanc, Gros Manseng or Ugni Blanc, unoaked and delicate with subtle aromas.

1 corned beef brisket (about 4 lbs)
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 onion, peeled and chopped
3 cloves garlic
1 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp dried parsley
1 bay leaf
5 black peppercorns

Vegetables
1 small head cabbage, quartered
6-7 red potatoes, scrubbed
3 carrots, peeled and chopped
Salt to taste
Butter for garnish

Horseradish sauce
1/4 cup horseradish
1 cup sour cream

Place brisket, carrot, onion, garlic, thyme and parsley in a large pot. Cover with water. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer 2-3 hours or until tender. Remove corned beef from pot and let stand 15 minutes. Discard vegetables and water.

Meanwhile, in a smaller pot, cover cabbage, potatoes and carrots with water. Bring to a boil, add salt to taste, cover and simmer 20-30 minutes or until tender. Drain, dot with butter and serve with corned beef.

To make horseradish sauce, mix together horseradish and sour cream. Serve with corned beef and vegetables.

Serves 6

Gary: Look for crisp whites with little or no oak, sparkling wines, softly dry Rieslings, Spanish whites (Albariño, Txakoli, Verdejo) or Sauvignon Blanc to work with the saltiness of the beef and the challenges of the cabbage. For reds, try soft, fruity wines like plummy Spanish reds (Garnacha, Mourvèdre, Tempranillo), Pinot Noir or Barbera, which all have enough acidity without offering too much sweet fruit character. If the horseradish heat is enhanced by your wine choice, all the better – if you like that. Otherwise just temper the amount you put on your food.

1 large onion, sliced
2 TBS canola oil
2 1/2 lbs boneless beef chuck or lamb shoulder, cut into cubes
Salt and pepper to taste
2 cloves garlic, pushed through a garlic press
1 bay leaf
1/2 tsp dried thyme
1/2 tsp dried oregano
1 bottle Guinness beer
1 TBS Dijon mustard

In a Dutch oven, in hot oil, sauté the onions until translucent and tender. Add the beef or lamb and brown on all sides. Season with salt and pepper. Add garlic and sauté about 1 minute. Add bay leaf, thyme, oregano, Guinness and mustard. Bring to a boil, scraping up browned bits. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 1 1/2 hours or until meat is tender, adding a bit more Guinness or water if needed. Remove bay leaf. Serve in shallow soup bowls over mashed potatoes or noodles.

Gary: The richness of the Guinness and the lamb calls for a rich, round red wine with plenty of flavor and mellow tannins. Syrah/Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec are all fine choices. Dolcetto would be a fine call, as would a plump and plummy Garnacha/Grenache or Monastrell. Older wines are also fine with this dish, and their richness and nuances would be enhanced by it. 

3 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1 tsp baking soda
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups buttermilk
Butter for serving

Preheat oven to 425

In a large bowl, mix flour, baking soda, salt and buttermilk. Gather dough into a ball. Place on lightly floured surface and knead just until bread holds together, about 1-2 minutes. Shape into a 6-inch round and place on a baking sheet that has been coated with cooking spray. Using a sharp knife, cut an X in the top of the dough. Bake until golden brown, about 35 minutes. Loaf should sound hollow when tapped. Cool slightly and serve warm with butter.

Here are a couple of cocktails to warm up a chilly spring evening:
Apple Pie Cocktail
3 parts Figg’s Hot Apple Pie
1 part vodka
Mix and serve over ice.

Honey Apple
1 part almond liqueur
1 part Jack Daniel’s Honey Whiskey
3 parts Figg’s Apple Pie
Shake and pour over ice.

On this stormy night, Joe Sheridan, the chef at the terminal restaurant, was charged with concocting a warming beverage for the arriving passengers. Hot coffee, sugar (some say it was definitely brown sugar), whiskey (Irish, of course) and a layer of cream on top made up the drinks he served. When one passenger asked if it was Brazilian coffee, he replied, “No, it’s Irish coffee.”

A contrary theory is that the Irish Coffee was invented somewhat earlier at The Dolphin, a pub in Dublin, to disguise the taste of bad coffee that was common during the war years.

Hmmm…. Bad coffee? Or Pan Am, seaplanes, a dark and stormy night, weary passengers… We’ll take that version, please.

Oh, and thanks, Joe.

Irish Coffee

4 oz hot black coffee
1 tsp brown sugar
1 1/2 oz Irish whiskey
Heavy cream

Whip the cream by hand so that it is thick but can still be poured.

Preheat a glass coffee mug or goblet with hot water. Discard the water and pour the coffee into the mug then add the whiskey and sugar. Stir to mix. Using a bar spoon, gently pour the cream over the back of the spoon to top the coffee. Do not mix the cream into the coffee; drink the coffee through the cream. Enjoy to the last warming drop. Makes you want to have one right now, doesn’t it?

OYO Whiskey

OYO Stone Fruit Vodka is small-batch vodka made with Montmorency cherries, peaches, apricots, almonds, hibiscus and Ohio wildflower honey distilled from Ohio soft red winter wheat. This seemed more like a liqueur to us, with its aromas of vanilla, buttery caramel and spice, and its big, bold, natural-tasting flavors of honeyed apricot, and peach. We liked it straight, though we also thought topping it off with a generous pour of sparkling wine would be fun. See www.middlewestspirits.com for recipes, including an interesting cocktail made with OYO Stone Fruit, Four Roses Bourbon, lemon juice and Cointreau. 70 proof; $$$

Three Olives Cake flavored vodka, a relative newcomer in the line-up of confectionary vodka, is made with vodka imported from England. It absolutely smells like cake and icing – all butter, vanilla and sugar – and tastes like angel food cake. Dessert in a glass for those who want to have their cake and drink it too. 70 proof; $

$ – $10-$20
$$ – $20-$30
$$$ – $30-$40
$$$$ – $40+

There’s a gem of a wine region within a day’s drive of Ohio, and if you haven’t been there, start making your plans now. Michigan’s Old Mission Peninsula, a stone’s throw north of Traverse City, is making some of the most exciting wines in the Eastern United States.

This stunning peninsula juts 18 miles into Lake Michigan’s Grand Traverse Bay, rising high above the water. It’s ideal for growing cool-climate grapes because the deep waters of the bay stay warm well into the fall, lengthening the growing season. In winter, snow cover protects the vines, and the slow thaw in the spring makes them less susceptible to frosts after bud break.

The wines bear a similarity to those from Alsace or Italy’s Valle d’Aosta – crisp acidity, full flavor, and a certain luxurious texture. Riesling finds its natural home here, along with Gewurztraminer and Pinot Grigio/Pinot Gris. Reds are less plentiful, but the region has found success with Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

We were fortunate to taste some recent releases. Here’s the scoop:

Peninsula Cellars Dry Riesling, 2010 (Old Mission Peninsula); $14.99
Housed in an 1896 one-room schoolhouse, this winery has garnered plenty of recognition for its Riesling. This is a fine example, with lush aromas of peaches, apricots and honey that blossom into a crisp, vivid beauty full of Granny Smith apple and mineral notes.

2 Lads Cabernet Franc/Merlot, 2009 (Old Mission Peninsula); $25
It takes effort to get the most out of red grapes in this region, and these guys do it right by reducing the yield and removing leaves to let the remaining grapes absorb the most sunlight. This blend of 70 percent Cabernet Franc and 30 percent Merlot is Bordeaux-like in character, with chocolate-tinged cherry aromas, bright tart flavors and a support of vanilla toastiness achieved by 12 months in French oak.

Chateau Chantal Pinot Gris, 2010 (Old Mission Peninsula); $19.99
The winery, which doubles as a luxe Bed & Breakfast (get thee there!), may be all Loire Valley, but this wine seduces as only Alsace can. Its melon aroma has a gentle undertow of minerals and a depth that attests to its six months in neutral French oak. It coats the palate with honey, tangerine and fresh pineapple, rich but crisp. Delicious!

Black Star Farms “Arcturos” Riesling, 2010 (Michigan); $15.50
Like in any cool-climate growing region, the weather on Old Mission Peninsula is a crap shoot. But 2010 was a winner, with hot days and cool nights. This Riesling has lovely tropical aromas of pineapple, mango and guava, with luscious, full flavors of spicy pear and lime zest.

Chateau Grand Traverse Dry Riesling, 2010 (Old Mission Peninsula); $13
Dry does not mean austere, as demonstrated by this full-flavored, crisp Riesling. Aromas of stone fruit, honey and tangerine pave the way to lush flavors of mouthwatering mango, lemon and lime.

Bowers Harbor Vineyards Riesling, Block II, 2010 (Old Mission Peninsula); $25
The grapes that made this wine are from the winery’s oldest vineyard, planted with high-quality Riesling clones from Germany. The wines are consistent award winners, and this is no exception. Lovely aromas of orange blossom, stone fruit and minerals lead to very vibrant and lively flavors with citrus notes and a lingering stone fruit finish.

Brys Estate Pinot Noir, 2010 (Old Mission Peninsula); $30
Every wine we have tasted from this winery has been excellent. Here they prove up to the task of taming the heartbreak grape into a gem for the table. Ten months of aging in French oak have imparted a depth and elegance to its flavors of earth, baking spices, berries, cherries and tobacco.

For more information visit www.wineriesofoldmission.com

Pedro Lopes Vieira is banking on it. North American sales manager for Esporão, a winery in Portugal’s Alentejo region, Pedro was in Ohio recently to promote his wines made primarily from indigenous grapes like Verdelho and Trincadeira.

“It’s what Portugal does best,” he said at a wine dinner at Sergio’s Sarava on Shaker Square in Cleveland. Getting people over the grape hurdle is, he admits, the toughest part of his job.

But what we tasted that night proved that it’s well worth the leap. We began with Alandra White, a casual, non-vintage blend whose crisp, dry, minerally taste accentuated Caldo Verde, a traditional Portuguese soup made from potatoes, onions, garlic, greens and chorizo. Priced under $10, this is a wine that could easily land in my cellar as my summer go-to white.

But it was the 2010 Esporão Verdelho (about $16) that really got my mouth watering. Lovely stone fruit aromas paved the way for fresh, natural richness on the palate, the wine’s lush tropical fruit a perfect foil to the salt cod cakes accompanying it. This grape, once important in Madeira production, is now used to make dry table wines that are, said Pedro, “very adaptable and compatible.”

I was completely won over by the charming 2010 Monte Velho Red (about $10), with its pretty, wild berry aroma and complex layers of rich, bright fruit. It’s made from a blend of traditional indigenous grapes, including Tinta Roriz, better known to us as Tempranillo. Minimal aging retains its fresh character, making it easy to pair with food, and at this price, here’s another case for my cellar.

Our high-end selection for the evening was Esporão Reserva Red, 2008 (about $25), a mature wine with pronounced tannins, fairly brawny yet approachable, that stands up well to hearty meats. Aged in American oak, it’s a blend of four grapes, including Alicante Bouschet and a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon to bring depth and structure to the wine.

We finished off the evening with 2010 Esporão Late Harvest (about $20/375ml), a delicate, ethereal Semillon grown in a high altitude vineyard – a pleasant departure in a dessert wine from a country known for its heavy, rich, fortified ports and madeiras.

I have long been a fan of Portuguese table wines for their generally consistent quality at a reasonable price. Yes, they are made from grapes that are unfamiliar to many wine drinkers. I think that’s a plus. We already know plenty of Chardonnays. Let’s make some new friends.

This is perhaps the best way to learn about French wines: by knowing the grapes used in each region for the prime wine types and styles.

France organizes its wines by a system known as “appellation contrôllée” or “place/name control.” This means that the wine in the bottle matches the label and region of origin. It also implies a certain level of quality, though there are widely divergent levels of quality within any region and appellation. It pays to know both the potential quality of a region and particularly the specific producer, as they are the final determination of quality.

Appellation contrôllée also encompasses delimiting the boundary of a specific region (climate and soil types but sometimes political regions), the minimum alcohol level (indicates grape ripeness), methods of pruning and training the grape vines, yield (establishes concentration levels) and winemaking methods.

The Chateauneuf-du-Pape region in the southern Rhône was the first to establish such standards, whose purpose was to ensure authenticity and prevent fraudulent producers from diminishing the region’s quality reputation. Another fraud-prevention measure is for an estate to bottle its own wine.

The cool climate in many French regions results in wines that are reserved in style and have firm acidity. Many of these wines develop and open in the glass and show better with time. They are not showy or flagrant in style, but take time to show their character and subtlety. If we take the time to get to know them, their quality usually becomes obvious.

Here are some of the major regions and grapes to know:

Loire River Valley (West): Muscadet – Low acid, vinous whites from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, the best bottled directly off their lees for freshness, showing a delicate hint of spritz.

Loire River Valley (Central): Vouvray, Anjou – Fruity, aromatic whites with firm acidity made from Chenin Blanc, the styles range from sparkling, softly dry to very long-lived, botrytised examples.

Within the Anjou region: Savennières – A unique appellation for dry, focused, stylish Chenin Blancs.

Loire River Valley (East): Sancerre, Pouilly Fumé – Crisp, herb-scented whites that are elegant and long, made from Sauvignon Blanc. The finest are usually produced without oak and have piquant, high acidity.

Champagne – Blended wines from Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier (red) and Chardonnay (white) for classic bottle-fermented wines of great length, toasty nuances, firm acidity and creamy textures.

Burgundy – Whites from Chardonnay, reds from Pinot Noir. These are some of the finest wines in the world produced from these grapes and can be exceptionally long-lived and complex. Burgundy encompasses Chablis, Côte de Beaune, Côte Challonaise and Macon for whites, and all these regions except for Chablis for reds (there are also few Macon reds).

Bordeaux “Left Bank” – Red wines based primarily on Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot with inclusion of Carmenère, Petit Verdot and Malbec in the blend.

Bordeaux “Right Bank” – Red wines made from Merlot and Cabernet Franc. White wines from Sauvignon Blanc (imparting acidity and aroma) and Semillon (imparting weight and texture). Semillon is a focus for late harvest white wines because of its thin skins and botrytis susceptibility.

Beaujolais – Grapey, supple reds made overwhelmingly from the Gamay grape, with good acidity and purple hues. Casual wines for quaffing, though serious producers and communes do make substantial wines.

Northern Rhône  – Syrah-based reds, with big, gamey, blackberry scents and flavors. Viognier makes perfumed whites; other white grapes are Marsanne and Roussanne. White grapes are blended in small portions in some red wines to offer freshness and aroma.

Southern Rhône – Reds are blended from up to 13 varietals (including some whites) to reach complexity in the warmer climate, but Grenache is the focus, blended with Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan and Cinsault. Whites from Marsanne and Roussanne.

Languedoc/Roussillon – Many blended, quality wines from Carignan, Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. Also Cremant (sparklers) from high-altitude Limoux.

Provence – Known for rosé but also making reds from Rhône varietals.

Alsace – Dry whites named for the varietal (Pinot Gris, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois, Riesling). Also light reds from Pinot Noir.

Lodi vineyards have been producing grapes for over a century, and for many years these grapes were the unsung heroes in many a California wine. But that’s changing, as Lodi is coming into its own as a wine-producing region and bottling wines under its own appellation. In the early 1990s there were eight wineries. Now there are 80.

For a totally different wine tourism experience, head east from Napa or Sonoma and spend a weekend here before growth brings inevitable change.

Don’t expect the glitz of Lodi’s swanky neighbors. These are farmers. They just happen to farm grapes. And they’re passionate about it. Take Annalisa Babich. When I met her she was digging an irrigation ditch in her family’s vineyard. She had recently left behind a glamorous Hollywood life to return home to help on the farm. That day she was covered up to her knees in muck, and she was happy as a pig in… well, muck.

Get situated
While there are a few chain motels in town, the place for a luxury stay is Wine & Roses Hotel, Restaurant and Spa. Set on seven acres of lushly manicured grounds, its 79 rooms and suites offer serene accommodations with the option of a dip in the pool or a drink in the lounge. Dining here is top-notch, with dinner entrées like Olive Oil Poached Blue Nose Sea Bass with Orange Zest & Albariño Sauce, Parsnip Puree and Braised Greens. It would be tempting, in fact, never to leave the property. But in Lodi, there’s work to be done. And that involves lifting a glass.

Taste some wines
You don’t have to go far to get started. The Lodi Wine and Visitor Center is right next to Wine & Roses. There you can taste from a selection of local wines that change weekly. ($5 per person for four tastes; Wine & Roses guests get a reduced rate.) My favorite was 2006 Oak Ridge Winery Moss Roxx Ancient Vine Zinfandel – big, peppery and nicely balanced. The center also has a good inventory of bottles for sale.

Pick up a wine tasting guide and map on your way out and you’re off to the wineries. Many have weekend-only tasting hours, though some of the larger wineries are open daily. Don’t miss Michael David Winery, known for its massive wines in the “Earthquake” series. In addition to the tasting room, there’s a down-home-style café and bakery as well as a fruit stand.

Two cooperative tasting rooms in charming Downtown Lodi make it possible to taste wines from a number of different wineries. The Cellar Door offers gourmet munchies and wines by the flight, glass or bottle. This is the place to sample wines from Bokisch Vineyards. Owners Marcus and Liz Bokisch are breaking new ground with their Spanish varietals like Garnacha, Tempranillo and Albariño; the ones I tasted were all delicious.

A short walk away is Lodi Wine Cellars, which offers wines from a different group of wineries. Guests are welcome to bring picnic baskets and enjoy their wine al fresco on the patio.

Eat some food
You might want to pack that picnic basket with goodies from Cheese Central, also downtown. With over 100 varieties of cheese as well as local honey, chutneys olive oils and preserves, there’s plenty to choose from.

For sit-down, indoor dining, check out Crush Kitchen + Bar. The cozy lounge, with its cushy couches and low tables, is a perfect spot to sip one of the many local wines and enjoy an appetizer like corn cakes made with roasted local corn, peppers, herbs and breadcrumbs, lightly fried and served with piquillo pepper coulis.

Or head down the street to School Street Bistro, where owner David Akiyoshi doubles as winemaker at nearby Lange Twins Winery. You’ll find a wide selection of local wines – of course, Lange Twins is the house pour – and entrées like Jezebel Pork Chop, a cider-brined chop glazed with a spicy pineapple-apricot sauce and served with smoked Gouda mac ‘n’ cheese or smashed potatoes.

Enjoy some art
Walking around downtown, you’ll notice murals – nine of them – scattered throughout town. These are the work of the Walldogs, a group of 100 artists who gathered in Lodi for three days in 2006 to paint up the town in celebration of its centennial. Other public art includes sculpture, mosaics and even the town water tower. The Lodi Arts Commission also sponsors art hops the first Friday of every month, when artists open their gallery spaces to the public.

Wine, food and art – what better way to spend a weekend?

Resources
www.visitlodi.com
www.winerose.com
www.lodiwine.com
www.michaeldavidwinery.com
www.lodicellardoor.com
www.bokischvineyards.com
www.lodiwinecellars.com
www.cheesecentrallodi.com
www.schoolstreetbistro.com
www.crushkitchen.com
www.lodiarts.org

A Taste of Lodi: Five Favorites
*Van Ruiten Sauvignon Blanc: Bright sweet lemon aroma and crisp honeyed flavor.
Bokisch Vineyards Albariño, Terra Alta Vineyard: Bursting with floral notes and flavors of melon and minerals.
*Klinker Brick “Old Ghost” Old Vine Zinfandel: Intense, powerful, luscious and deep.
*Gnarly Head Authentic Red: Soft, juicy chocolate-covered cherries.
*337 Cabernet Sauvignon: Rich aroma, silky smoothness and lush flavor.

*available in Ohio

HandCraft Chardonnay, made with small amounts of Viognier, Chenin Blanc and Malvasia Bianca, has a lovely spicy apple aroma, lush flavor and creamy texture.

HandCraft Pinot Noir is lively and versatile, with a vivid berry aroma, vibrant fruit and a touch of cinnamon on the finish. A splash of Sangiovese gives this wine a spicy depth.

HandCraft Petite Sirah has a very deep color with juicy, concentrated ripe boysenberry flavor. This jammy and full-bodied wine has a spicy backbone that begs for BBQ.

HandCraft Cabernet Sauvignon exudes a rich cassis aroma with underlying spice. A bit of Petite Sirah and Sangiovese deepens its color and gives this medium-bodied wine ripe berry and cherry flavors with a touch of mocha.

All are 2010 vintage except the Petite Sirah, which is a 2009. They are priced at $10.99 through April.

Here are some Aussie selections to sip while reciting Alfred Noyes’ classic verses from “The Highwayman”:

James Squire Nine Tales Amber Ale:  Copper-colored with a creamy head, it’s full-flavored enough to be an English brown ale. Made with three kinds of malts and Tasmanian hops added late to the kettle, it has caramel, toffee and light hop aromas. Very refreshing with a slightly nutty finish. If you can’t find kangaroo meat, pair it with lamb.

Bluetongue Traditional Pilsener: Bluetongue Brewery was founded in 2003 by four partners in the Hunter region of New South Wales who wanted to design beers that would showcase their region. Although it’s brewed in the Czech style, this pilsener combines Saaz hops with Australian malted barley, local water and no preservatives. It has malty flavors, balanced bitterness and fruity aromas – a perfect foil for spicy Asian food.

Blue Sky Brewery’s True Blue Stout: Made in Cairns in Northern Queensland, this is more seasonally suited to American (or “Yank”) palates since it’s summer Down Under. This big, coffee-colored beer has mocha and chocolate flavors and lots of roasted malts. It’s great for warming up chilly days in southern Australia or the northern U.S.

But by the middle of January, even an avid skier can use a break. Some take one by catching a plane; others by cranking up the heat, turning on some island tunes and hosting a Caribbean-themed shindig or perhaps a Hawaiian luau.

If we can celebrate Christmas in July, then it’s merely symmetrical to conjure up some July in January. Here are a few ideas for selecting beers that will fool your aloha-adorned guests into thinking ‘tis the season for light lagers and hefeweizens instead of porters and stouts.

For Jamaican-themed parties, put some Bob Marley on the Bose and chill some Red Stripe, a refreshing lager that’s made for jerked chicken and curried goat. For more generic island-themed celebrations, try frosted bottles of Piton, a favorite on St. Lucia, and serve with martini glasses of ceviche (fresh raw fish marinated in citrus juices and spiced with chili peppers.) Stock up on Balashi for those who usually decamp to Aruba this time of year. It’s a true tropical pilsener – very dry, very light and slightly fizzy.

If arriving guests can’t shake winter’s grip, start them out with Ayinger’s Weizen-Bock, a Bavarian wheat ale that’s brewed with the heft of a bock. It starts out with fresh-baked wheatiness and finishes with tropical fruits, cloves and bananas. Serve it with spicy Mexican or Indian dishes.

Top off this fantasy trip with Lindemans Pomme, an apple lambic served over dulce de leche (caramel) ice cream – like a caramel apple float. It’s simple, tasty and a great finale to a summer’s eve in January.

Parfait for Grown-Ups

We’ve simplified things when it comes to after-dinner drinks: a little cognac, a touch of Grand Marnier, a snifter of Sambuca.

But 100 years ago, the ideal way among sophisticates to top off a meal was a bit more complicated. The rage then was the pousse-café, or “coffee chaser,” and done right, this layered drink is just as pretty to look at as it is fun to drink.

The idea is to pour portions of different liqueurs (and sometimes cream or syrups such as grenadine) on top of one another so that the densest is poured first, and then the next densest, and so on. The result is a multicolored drink that forms perfect layers as each liqueur “floats” on the one below it. The standard number was six, but smarty pants bartenders have been known to push that up to an astonishing 34 (served with a stretcher).

Traditionally, pousse-café is presented in its own special glass, similar to a cordial glass, that’s tall and narrow, making the most of the drink’s showiness.

Pousse-café seems to have developed in the late 1800s, and reached its apex around the turn of the 19th century, but the drink, and its many variations, is just as delicious now as then. All it takes to make one at home is a little bit of practice. Just be sure to pour over the back of a bar spoon carefully, and don’t jostle the glass or you’ll end up with a muddy mess.

Here are some recipes, but you can try your hand with your own concoction. It may take a bit of experimenting, but in general, add any syrups first, then liqueurs with lower alcohol content, then higher proof liqueurs, and finally, cream if using.

Good luck and have fun!

Princess Pousse-Café

3/4 ounce Apricot Brandy
1/4 ounce heavy cream (OK, you can substitute light cream)

Pour the cream carefully over the back of a bar spoon to top the brandy.

For a variation, try different flavors of fruit brandy.