Like a hazy daybreak, this edition of Jolly Pumpkin’s letter-series Saisons pours a sunny yellow-gold with a sudsy head and lingering light ribbons of carbonation. A lovely citrusy-floral perfume has just enough wheaty weight to raise expectations. Bright lemon, lime, orange and grapefruit are balanced with softer, sweeter early summer fruit flavors of peach and pear. A bready body and just-right bitterness create a full mouth for a wonderfully complex beer that’s no doubt enhanced by its stay in oak barrels. At 7.1 percent ABV, M has a beautiful crisp, resinous finish with a little spice, yet emits surprisingly little warmth in this fine example of a farmhouse Saison.